![]() Hold cam gear with SST and tighten bolt.Align cam gear 'dot' so it is vertical and in line with mark on backing plate (5 teeth to the right from 'slot', so before TDC).Align crank pulley 'dot' with mark on oil pump (5 teeth to the right from 'slot', so before TDC).The manual describes how to install the cam gears, here is a brief version for the exhaust cam (Draven's broken timing belt incident would suggest this strongly ) I believe that the 2JZ-GTE is a Non-interference engine. The 2JZ-GE (Non-turbo) is an interference engine. I think I've worked it out (Thanks to the pictures from the GS300 manual he sent me!) but currently I don't know!Ĭrank timing belt gear, see dot 4 teeth to right (on end) I suspect it will be something like, turn cam via cam gear so that there is no clockwise paly and insure timing marks line up. Somewhere in between the first two options.So that the cam gear has no anit-clockwise play, and lots of clockwise play.So that the cam gear has no clockwise play, and lots of anti-clockwise play. ![]() So if I was to set the cam pulleys to have the slot mark pointing straight up, then I have the option of having the inlet pulley setup a few ways.(I can move the inlet cam to achieve these.) ![]() Secondly once I remove the timing belt, I can move the inlet (VVTi) cam gear (Without moving the cam itself) a very significant amount, see pictures below. I believe that the 'slots' are the timing markers however.not sure what the dots are for. so it might be incorrect already.yayīoth cam gears and the crank pulley drive gear have two markings on them, a 'slot' and a 'dot'. My first problem is that when I set the crank to 0, neither of the cam marks line up. It isn't the same as a non-vvti timing belt setup The torque specification is 28lb/ft and be sure to retain the factory washer that's sandwiched between the oil pump and your billet tensioner bracket.Can anyone help me with the timing belt installation on a VVTi 2JZGTE (Ex JZS161). You will also want to apply some common grease to the shank of the bolt which holds the tensioner to the oil pump and a dot of blue Loctite on the threads of the bolt to keep oil from seeping out of the engine, as its retaining hole is through-hole. If the valve tip were to break off it can damage the combustion chamber, piston and other various components as well.ĭuring installation, the lock washer on the idler pulley will be deleted and we recommend a drop of red Loctite in its place. If the bolt or belt break during operation, the majority of aftermarket camshafts will cause the pistons to hit the valves, bending or breaking them and requiring a cylinder head overhaul. Once this happens the timing belt itself can fail, or the bolt can fail as the movement of the engine can cause the bolt to break. While there are many well constructed aftermarket unbushed steel tensioners on the market, when used for a long service interval - as you would find on a street car or road race vehicle, over time the lubricant used during installation will be displaced and the bolt can fuse to the tensioner. They will continuously wear and eventually they will interfere, bind, and seize. Galling is wear caused by adhesion between sliding surfaces. The bronze bushing is of paramount importance due to the susceptibility of like-material galling. All tool paths in our tensioner have the longest possible radii to make the part as strong as possible while still fitting in the OEM location. It is constructed out of 6061 Aluminum and utilizes an oil impregnated bronze bushing, as well as a steel insert for the factory hydraulic belt tensioner to ride on. Introducing the new Real Street Performance 2JZ Billet Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket (Part Number: RS02-0002).
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